ABSTRACT Alternative methods to the use of animals in research have been a global trend, mainly after the publication of the 3R’s principle (Replacement, Reduction, and Refinement), proposed by Russel and Burch. In the cosmetic sector, safety and efficacy assessments using animals have generated controversial debates. For this reason, in vitro research techniques are widely used to assess acute toxicity; corrosivity and irritation; skin sensitization; dermal and percutaneous absorption; repeated dose toxicity; reproductive toxicity; mutagenicity and genotoxicity; carcinogenicity; toxicokinetic studies; photo-induced toxicity; and human data. Although there are many methodologies described, validated, and widely used in the cosmetic area, the evaluation of the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products is still an expanding field. It needs global collaboration among regulatory agencies, universities, and industry, to meet several unmet needs in the fields of sensitization, carcinogenicity, systemic action, among other issues involving safety of users of cosmetic products. This review article will cover the currently most relevant in vitro models regarding irritation, corrosion, sensitization, mutagenicity, genotoxicity, and phototoxicity, to help to choose the most appropriate test for evaluating the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients and products.

For the construction of the phase diagrams, the method of the aqueous titration was used. There were prepared 5 ternary diagrams, varying the surfactant and the oil phase. The liquid-crystalline phases were identified by polarized light microscopy. The formulations prepared with silicon glycol copolymer, polyether functional siloxane (PFS) and water (S1) and with diisopropyl adipate, PFS and water (S4) presented liquid-crystalline phases with lamellar arrangement. Moreover, after 15 days in hot oven (37 ºC), the formulations presented hexagonal arrangement, evidencing the influence of the temperature in the organization of the system.